Slow Living in Valchiavenna - in the Campanile Nero apartments

Waking up to a panoramic view of the surrounding greenery, enjoying a relaxing coffee on the terrace, followed by a refreshing dip in the river? Sounds good?

At Campanile Nero, you'll find the perfect oasis. The apartments were recently created with great dedication and love for the region by Michie and Christian, an Austrian couple. We met them personally over an aperitivo in Chiavenna. Michie explained that they've known Valchiavenna for decades, ever since they had friends who lived there while they were living in Milan. Together, they discovered this unspoiled valley in northern Italy and, of course, received many insider tips. Eventually, the idea arose to create high-quality accommodation in their favorite place.

The Campanile Nero, nestled in lush greenery, amidst the mountains of northern Italy.

Valchiavenna is a valley in Lombardy, northern Italy, and a gem for outdoor enthusiasts and those seeking tranquility. The region is well-developed for tourism yet has retained its authenticity. You'll find numerous natural highlights away from the crowds, genuine hospitality, and a taste of the Italian way of life. High mountains lie close to sweeping valleys – the diversity couldn't be greater. This is what captivated Michie and Christian, who love spending time outdoors.

Whether hiking, skiing, or freeriding – it's all possible here. Leisurely hikers will find just as much to enjoy as ambitious summit seekers. You'll discover beautiful spots to stop for refreshments, tranquility, and breathtaking views. Even after almost 10 years in Valchiavenna, there are still plenty of hikes on my personal bucket list. I recently discovered Alpe Malinone, with its magnificent view of the imposing Piz Badile in Val Bregaglia. In winter, we love skiing off-piste. The runs are fantastic. If there's less snow on the Italian side, we simply head to Maloja in Switzerland and ski from there. For those who prefer groomed slopes, the ski resorts in Madesimo (Italy) and Sils (Switzerland) are in close proximity.

And those are just the obvious activities in the mountains. You'll also find several climbing routes in the valley, a mountain stream for canyoning, and much more. So we can easily understand what captivated Michie and Christian so much that they decided to realize their passion project right here.

Activities in Valchiavenna

A story in stone

Campanile Nero is more than just accommodation – it's a place to relax and experience Italian life firsthand. Once a historic 12th-century monastery, the beautifully restored building now offers three apartments for those seeking simplicity, comfort, and timeless Italian charm. The so-called Black Bell Tower is the only remaining vestige of the Church of Saints Christopher and Pancras, first mentioned in Prata in 1176. Its name derives from the dark color of the stone from which it was built. The building still watches over the valley, just as it did centuries ago. Lovingly renovated, the campanile blends original stonework and vaulted ceilings with a warm, modern design.

The historic bell tower is well preserved and has been lovingly restored.

The perfect retreat

We've seen many holiday apartements in Valchiavenna, as we feature accommodations in the region on our website, and we can say with genuine conviction that Campanile Nero stands out. Even the arrival is captivating, with lush greenery and fresh air, and the distinctive bell tower always in view, visible from the valley. You'll be immediately charmed by the place. The apartments are designed with meticulous attention to detail. Christian did most of the work himself, with the help of experienced craftsmen, and was on-site throughout the entire process. Beautiful details of the historic building have been preserved, such as the messages carved into the wall of the former prison. Old building materials were reused wherever possible – a decorative wooden beam here, a staircase made of old bricks there. These are complemented by lovely pieces of furniture, almost all high-quality, unique secondhand items. Michie has a knack for bringing everything together to create a harmonious and inviting atmosphere.

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And then there's the absolutely magnificent view. Not only from the large terrace, but also through the many cleverly placed windows. The living room of the large apartment, Chiesa, with its vaulted ceiling, is simply unbeatable. You're standing in the nave of the old church, looking out through the enormous panoramic arches. This creates a light-filled ambiance that invites you to dream.

Is there a better place for an aperitif?

A highlight is the river below the Campanile Nero, to which you have private access. Especially on hot summer days, it's a welcome opportunity to cool off. Why not take a short break from the heat and then enjoy an aperitif on the terrace?

One place, countless possibilities

There aren't many places in Valchiavenna that are so peaceful, scenic, and yet centrally located. Away from the tourist hotspots, yet strategically convenient. After living in Valchiavenna for so many years, we know the area inside and out – not only through our work in tourism but also from our own experience finding property. As you know, the three most important criteria are "location, location, location." The apartments are just 10 minutes from the charming old town of Chiavenna. There you'll find small boutiques to browse, countless excellent restaurants, and, of course, historic buildings. Every Saturday, you can buy fresh fruit and vegetables, delicious cheese, and local cured meats at the market.

Your stomach will certainly not be disappointed in Valchiavenna – you'll find numerous restaurants offering high-quality cuisine. Whether you prefer a small agriturismo with a few homemade dishes on the menu or a Michelin-starred restaurant, there's something to suit every taste. Chiavenna is also "Citta Slow" – a special distinction in Italy. Sustainability, a slower pace of life, and regional products are highly valued here. Chiavenna has retained its charm, and traditions are alive and well preserved. In some restaurants, you can still find dishes slowly braised in a soapstone pot. Long-aged, flavorful mountain cheeses are also a common sight.

Our culinaric recommendations

Local identity is also emphasized and celebrated through annual festivals. Foremost among them is the "Sagra dei Crotti" held in honor of the region's characteristic caves—natural cellars where cheese, wine, and other foodstuffs have been stored for centuries. And that's just one example. My favorite festival is the "Di de la Brisaola" where you can sample the various local Brisaola producers. Brisaola? Yes, that's not a typo. Unlike traditional Bresaola, it's made from beef, cured with salt, mountain herbs, and wine, and characteristically smoked over pine or larch wood. It's also aged in the "crotti." In short, Valchiavenna is a paradise for gourmets.

Thanks to its central location, you have perfect access to the Bregaglia and Splügen valleys, as well as Lake Como. A hike in warmer climes or perhaps a day on the slopes? A kayaking tour on Lake Mezzola or a stop at a mountain hut at a cooler 2,000m? You have a wide range of activities to choose from in every season.

Just "behind" the Campanile Nero, one of my favorite hikes into the Val Schiesone begins. It's a wild valley, just before the dramatically steep summit of Pizzo di Prata. You probably won't encounter anyone; the Rifugio Il Biondo is unstaffed, an idyllic spot to unpack your lunch. But for those who prefer more civilization and infrastructure on their hikes, there are plenty of options within easy reach.

A little snow in June? Out and about in shorts on the Pian de Cavalli.

And what could be better than returning to your private oasis of well-being after a fulfilling day in nature?

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