An authentic piece of Italy – just a few hours' drive from southern Germany
Endless hiking – a dream for mountain goats like me.
Our stomach also likes it– the gastronomy leaves nothing to be desired.
Celebrate as the occasion arises – we love the numerous cultural events steeped in tradition.
Do you know where we live when we're not traveling? We'll tell you: in Valchiavenna, Italy.
That doesn't ring a bell? It doesn't surprise me. This region in northern Italy is still a real insider tip. We discovered it by chance in 2018, when we were looking for a holiday home in the mountains. Real estate prices, of course, also played a role for us. So, Austria, Switzerland, and South Tyrol were quickly crossed off the list. And this valley in the Italian-speaking region of Sondrio was only a 4-5-hour drive from our former home in Plüderhausen, Baden-Württemberg. Perfect for long weekends, too. We didn't think twice, even though we had only seen the region for a single weekend before buying the property. A ski resort in the immediate vicinity, endless hiking opportunities, and a nearby lake for the summer. That was enough to make the decision. We're not that complicated after all :-)
Since then, we've spent many days in Valchiavenna, in all seasons, and have fallen more and more in love. So much so that we even launched the project "Love Valchiavenna" and, with it, a German-language website about the region. But that's another story.
Of course, we really enjoy the hiking and freeriding opportunities. We simply love being active in the mountains. Our proximity to Switzerland means we can hit the slopes there too. And if there's little snow on the Italian side, there's plenty in Switzerland, and vice versa. At least, that's been our experience over the past six years. We've even learned to climb and are now also doing vertical activities – everything in moderation, of course. The learning curve is flat in our early 40s :-)
In summer, Lago di Mezzola, a protected lake, is a welcome respite. Swimming, kayaking, or simply enjoying an aperitif on the shore—everything is possible. And the northern shore of Lake Como isn't far either. However, we tend to avoid that; there are already too many tourists for our taste.
We also find the weather much better than in Germany. Who wants a cold, wet, gray winter and a changeable summer? The Valchiavenna lies relatively low at only about 200 meters above sea level and is blessed with sunshine. Even in winter, it is usually pleasantly mild and very sunny. Surrounded by 3,000-meter peaks, it offers guaranteed snow in the winter and pleasant temperatures in the summer, allowing you to escape the heat in the valley.
What we hadn't even considered, however, was the gastronomy as a highlight. Chiavenna, by the way, is also part of the Italian città slow network, inspired by the Slow Food movement. We've never been disappointed with the food here. Whether pizza, pasta, traditional or innovative dishes – everything is delicious!
The valley has a very long history, as the Splügen Pass, one of the flattest Alpine passes, has always connected it to the north. Hence the name "Chiavenna," which derives from "key" – essentially the gateway to the Mediterranean world. The valley is home to culture and traditions that have been preserved and passed down over the centuries, such as the production of soapstone pots, which are still used in gastronomy today. And there are some regional products that cannot be found anywhere else. For example, Brisaola (as opposed to Bresaola!), made from salted, air-dried beef, which is produced only there; Pizzoccheri, a type of pasta made from buckwheat and wheat flour; and Bitto cheese, which is painstakingly handcrafted every summer on small alpine pastures using raw milk. And then there are the so-called crotti – hollow spaces between boulders that have been used for centuries for the natural storage and aging of wine, brisaola, and other foods (they maintain a year-round temperature of around 8 degrees Celsius and a constant air supply). Many of these are private, while others have attached restaurants and can be visited at any time. And once a year, a multi-day festival is held in honor of the crotti – Sagra dei Crotti. This is just one of the many regular events in the valley that celebrate local culture and traditions. We love tasting the sausages at the Di de la Brisaola, for example, or strolling through the candlelit old town during the Notte di San Lorenzo.
In short, Valchiavenna is a piece of authentic Italy. Although the region is very well-developed for tourism, it is not overcrowded. Here, you can see Italians strolling down the streets and drinking espresso for hours. We, too, consciously enjoy this slow pace.
Since then, Chiavenna has become our adopted home and the center of our lives. Our roots are in Germany, but life there no longer appeals to us. Home is where your heart is – ours is in Valchiavenna.
I can only recommend you to "drop by"; we are not the first to fall in love with Valchiavenna and return :-)
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