In the land of the Maya - bienvenidos a Mexico
- Marion Marquardt
- Feb 28
- 6 min read
We're in Mexico! After two eventful and exhausting weeks in Costa Rica, we're flying to Veracruz. Our campervan is waiting for us there. The ship, Dover Highway, arrived one week ahead of us—right on schedule. That means we can immediately start the process of officially importing the vehicle into Mexico. It's still on the port grounds. Our customs agent, Carina, is helping us with the steps, which can be quite confusing for tourists. We're meeting directly at the Banjercito, the office in Mexico that issues the temporary import permit (TIP). Unlike in all the other countries we've visited, our campervan should be able to remain duty-free here for 10 years. Many long-term travelers take advantage of this, of course.
Waiting for the vehicle
Several days pass before the drug inspection at the port, a random waiting time after requesting an appointment with customs. We're just glad to have a few days at the hotel with no plans... catching up on sleep, digesting impressions and organizing a few things (local SIM cards, laundry, etc.). The inspection on Monday goes smoothly. The Mexicans are indeed quite strict and thoroughly search every compartment in the camper. However, they always do so with great respect and caution. After the drug-dog finds nothing, I'm allowed to put everything back. No photos this time; even bringing a cell phone to this appointment is strictly forbidden... now it's just a matter of getting clearance before we can leave the port. After another two days, I'm summoned back to the port. In my imagination, I get in the car and drive out of the port. In reality, I join hundreds of trucks to go through scale, X-ray scanner, and various document checks. The whole thing costs me several hours and a lot of nerves...
In two days, Carnival begins in Veracruz – the second largest on the continent, after Rio de Janeiro. The city will be in a state of emergency, with many streets closed for parades and concerts. For us, no reason to party, but rather to leave the city as quickly as possible. However, we urgently need to get our brake pads replaced (after more than 60,000 km, it's high time!). Edoardo is a good mechanic and – having traveled extensively himself – he helps overlanders quickly. And so, 20 hours later, we're on the road. Theoretically, at least, because we have to refuel, do food shopping, refill our water, etc. I'm relieved when we finally turn onto the highway heading east. These forced stops in involuntary locations, characterized by waiting and dependence on others, always feel somewhat unpleasant to me. At least Diego and I used the time for haircuts.
Now it's time to explore the countryside beyond the city bubble. Veracruz isn't particularly beautiful, but it's quite nice for shopping. What really shocked us, though, were the prices. Whether it's restaurants, clothes, or Diesel – we're at European levels. The service takes some getting used to... there are countless employees everywhere with responsibilities that aren't clear to us. But as is often the case, quantity doesn't equal quality...
On the road again
We've roughly planned our route now, heading straight east and have a lot of miles to cover. At least the highway is reasonably good – better than any road in South America. However, those damn bumps, topes, or (unmarked) speed bumps are still there, often in the middle of nowhere, downhill, or just about anywhere else nobody needs them. We've already had more than one drawer in the camper fall out because of them.
In the footsteps of the Maya
Several Mayan sites lie along the way, including the quite famous Palenque. Of course, we couldn't miss that. The organization is somewhat chaotic and not very visitor-friendly. You can only buy tickets for the same day, and only on-site. Then you have to queue in four different lines. The national park charges an entrance fee, as does the INAH, which manages the Mayan sites; ultimately, you have to pay separately for parking and the bus into the site. Really annoying. And we thought we were getting closer to efficiency as we headed north :-)
The Mayan sites are truly impressive. Early in the morning, there are only a few tourists around, and we have time to take some beautiful photos. Here, you're even allowed to climb most of the buildings and have a fantastic view. Diego is climbing diligently :-)
Just around the corner (by Mexican standards) are the Cascadas Agua Azul, which means "blue water." Beautiful waterfalls in the middle of the jungle. We are blown away by their scale and beauty. Contrary to expectations, there are no crowds here, even though we'd read everywhere in Palenque about day trips there. Diego not only enjoys swimming, but is also immediately integrated by the local boys.
After a long day of driving, more Mayan ruins are on the agenda. We're heading "right into the jungle" to Calakmul. The road there is in excellent condition, and the animals have disappeared since the controversial Mayan train began crossing their territory. The line, with its 34 stations, has been in operation since the end of 2024. It's intended to promote sustainable tourism. However, the intervention in the jungle, where thousands of hectares were cleared, is anything but sustainable. The ruins themselves, about 60 km from the train station, are still surrounded by pristine vegetation. We can hear and see howler monkeys. The ruins are among the largest and tallest Mayan structures, reaching about 50 meters. From the very top, there's a breathtaking view over the jungle. Unfortunately, Diego isn't in the mood to walk or climb that day, so we have to carry him up and down every single step. The mood remained bad throughout the day, even when we visited the Mayan city of Bécan in the afternoon. We were indeed the only tourists there. The site is impressive and at Mayan times was surrounded by a defensive ditch. Although you can see that nature is slowly reclaiming its space, it's still astonishing how well-preserved this ancient city is (founded around the 6th century BC!).
Finally, Caribbean feeling!
Now we're heading straight to Laguna Bacalar. Ever since the Caribbean coast in Colombia, we've been searching for crystal-clear, turquoise water. Will we finally find it? After all, the lagoon is nicknamed "Siete Colores," meaning "Seven Colors." We aren't disappointed. We arrive in paradise right on time for my birthday. The campsite has direct access to the lagoon via a side channel. We enjoy the water from our kayaks and swing on vines into the warm water. What fun for all of us! We spend a whole week at the lagoon, exploring different spots. We take a boat trip with Viktor to the Canal de los Pirates, connected to the sea, used for attacks in the past. The Maya therefore built a watchtower on the opposite side; there's still a naval base there today. The presence has been significantly increased since the execution of El Mencho a few days ago. Military and police are regularly seen patrolling together - always heavily armed.
Viktor explains some of the lagoon's origins. It's covered in stromatolites, one of the oldest life forms on our planet. You can think of them as living stones, microorganisms that convert CO2 into oxygen. The lagoon gradually filled with water. The entire Yucatan Peninsula is crisscrossed by a gigantic underground river and cave system. The collapse of the fragile limestone ceiling in some places created the unique cenotes for which this region is so famous. Seven of these are located in the present-day lagoon and have "filled" it over time. They are easily recognizable by their darker color; some are up to 64 meters deep, while the lagoon itself is quite shallow in most places. The other colors are created by light reflections on the crystal-clear water.
Real fun are the so-called Los Rapidos, a narrowing of the lagoon to just a few meters with a gentle current. We set off early in the morning and paddle through the channel in our kayaks before the tourist crowds arrive at 10 a.m. and jump in directly from the platforms for a heavy entrance fee. Wonderful!
We're now spending a few more days near Chetumal, by the sea. We're taking care of a few things and planning our journey to the next country – Belize.
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