Green, greener, Jardin

Our next destination is Jardín, one of Colombia's most important bird sanctuaries. We've heard from several fellow travelers that it's supposed to be very beautiful here. Micha is particularly keen to photograph the endemic Andean cock-of-the-rock – at least that one.

Driving, Driving, Driving...

Before we even arrive, however, many more hours in the car lie ahead of us. Colombia is a huge country, more than three times the size of Germany. The distances between the highlights are enormous, especially when you can only drive for about 3-4 hours a day. We usually try to drive around Diego's nap time; if the distances are longer, we start in the late morning with a lunch break, followed by a short afternoon drive. Diego is a pretty good driver, but his patience eventually runs out. And so do ours, of course. We have to get used to driving in South America again after such a long break. Maybe we'll never get used to it, though. Every Google Maps estimate is at least 30% shorter than the actual travel time. There are constant roadworks, tons of truck traffic, plus the unpredictable road conditions. We get annoyed every single time. Because we can't, or don't want to, drive indefinitely in a single day, we often end up spending the night at makeshift campsites. Gas stations are very popular with overlanders, but far too noisy for us, as trucks are constantly arriving and departing. Now, with Diego on board, it's also difficult to play outside. On the way to Jardin, we opt for a restaurant with a large parking lot, a pool, and a climbing frame for Diego. Contrary to expectations, the road noise isn't too bad, but we still treat ourselves to a beer upon arrival, just in case. We already suspect it's too good to be true, especially since we're not even paying for accommodation. Then, after closing time (5 p.m.), the employees begin their cleanup, accompanied by loud music. This inefficient process is constantly interrupted by acquaintances arriving and departing on (modified) motorcycles and doesn't end until just before midnight. The beer has long since worn off...

Paradise of Birds

The next morning, we set off towards Jardin. A very pretty little town; you can immediately tell it's been spruced up for tourists. A clear indication of this is the restrooms: toilet paper, toilet seat, light, and sometimes even soap are provided. That's not a given—none of it! After a good coffee, we do some shopping and settle into the campground. And just like that, the day is almost over... it gets dark here around 6 p.m.

The next morning, we take a short hike, past waterfalls, up to a beautiful viewpoint. It's also a great place to watch hummingbirds. In the afternoon, Micha goes in search of the Andean cock-of-the-rock. It's only active around 3 p.m. at the moment, then it moves on. Diego is still taking a nap, so we stay at the campground. This is (for us) the best one in Colombia. Absolutely quiet, surrounded by greenery, large open spaces (for playing), and covered cooking and relaxation areas (in case it rains again). And all this within walking distance of the town with its restaurants, cafes, and attractions. Perfect!

The Andean cock-of-the-rock seems like it's from another world.

Micha was successful. Perfect timing. The Andean cock-of-the-rock stuck to his schedule. Now his photographer's heart is "on fire" again, and he's planning another guided tour. The endemic fat-tailed swallows have their nest on the neighboring property and can be easily observed. But that's not all; within just a few hours, dozens of different bird species gather at the observation post. While Micha sets off at dawn, Diego and I arrive late in the morning. Diego, however, prefers to see the birds in flight and runs around wildly. It's a good thing Micha has already captured most of them :-)

Beach day for the Colombians

Near Jardin, there's the Cueva del Esplendedor, a beautiful cave in the jungle with a waterfall running through it. It's the main attraction of the region, and we definitely don't want to miss it. We opt for a jeep tour; otherwise, it would be about an 18 km hike. That's too much for us with Diego. When we meet at the agency, we already suspect we won't be alone. Unfortunately, our visit falls on a Sunday, and many weekday tourists from Medellin and Bogota are out and about. So, we drive in a convoy of jeeps up to the hilltop, from where it's about a 20-minute walk to the cave. Micha is already annoyed. He's brought all his camera equipment, including a tripod. As soon as we enter the cave, all the Colombians throw themselves into the water, screaming wildly, swimming in the waterfall, and splashing around. There's no chance of getting a picture without people in it. Time in the cave is limited, as the next group is already waiting. A blessing and a curse. As soon as everyone dried off, Micha seized the opportunity for a few quick snapshots. Far from satisfying, of course. I personally had imagined the trip differently, and Diego would have loved to go swimming. The water, however, was around 9 degrees Celsius. Oh well, these kinds of experiences are part of the adventure... In hindsight, we probably should have planned our trip for a weekday; on weekends, up to 400 tourists visit the cave each day.

Well, it's quite nice here....

We're really enjoying Jardin, catching up on work, and even treating ourselves to a pizza now and then. It really tastes like Italy!

Hospitality and diversity

Colombians are incredibly hospitable. So far, they're probably—along with Brazil—the most welcoming people in South America. We're greeted warmly everywhere we go, and often invited into people's homes. Help is always available when needed. While the scenery here often doesn't quite take our breath away, the hospitality more than makes up for it. Add to that the incredibly colorful birdlife and the diverse fruits. Colombia alone has over 400 endemic fruit varieties. We're discovering entirely new flavors. Many of these fruits aren't even exported. But even the "ordinary" mango tastes worlds better here. A single mango costs the equivalent of 10 cents at the market, or even better, picked straight from the tree :-)

Obove the Clouds...

On a whim, we drive to the neighboring town of Jerico, a recommendation from the ornithologist Micha was traveling with. According to Google Maps, it's about a two-hour drive. The road turns out to be a dirt track riddled with potholes, a maximum speed of 10 km/h. It takes longer than expected. Both of us at our wits' end, and with a loose drawer in the camper, we've almost reached our destination when the road is suddenly completely closed. They're resurfacing it. I politely ask the excavator operator... We can get through at 4 p.m. That's in more than two hours! A collective sigh of relief. Looks like we won't be paragliding today. That's one of the reasons we came here. The place is perfect for it, and our chosen campsite is also a paragliding base. The next morning, it's pouring rain, and fog hangs in the mountains. We enjoy the town; they have some beautiful leather goods here. Unfortunately, we have almost no room for shopping in the camper. I manage to negotiate a small handbag, though. We waited patiently in the fog until the next day, when finally the visibility cleared and I got the chance for a tandem paragliding flight. I didn't hesitate for long. Diego looked a little surprised as his mother disappeared into the sky. I'd never flown a paraglider before; it was truly a magical feeling. Completely calm, no wind. We flew at the same pace as the birds in front of us. Below us, "50 Shades of Green." I've never seen so much green as in Colombia. And it looked even more beautiful from above.

Ready to go...

5 Minutes later.....