"No hay Diesel" or a journey with obstacles
Remoteness Next Level - Domestic flight and 6 hours by speedbot
5 days in the primeval rainforest, far from WiFi and warm water
Surrounded by the lush green of the Amazon and breathtaking wildlife
We have been in Bolivia for almost 2 weeks now, and at the moment we are focusing on the absolute highlights. The reason for this is the increasingly acute diesel situation in the country. More about this in the last blog.
We barely get to Cochabamba after a truck driver sold us 20 liters from his tank. From there we will fly to Rurrenabaque, the gateway to Madidi National Park. However, road blockades are announced the evening before. This is also not uncommon in Bolivia and was only a matter of time due to the tense situation. So we have to go to the airport, which is only a few kilometers away, at night so as not to risk anything. Unfortunately our flight doesn't leave until midday and so we sit at the airport for 6 hours, completely sleepy. Of course, Diego just goes back to sleep and asks for entertainment later, as always. The pilot notices problems with the rotors just on the runway. We all have to change the plane. Sometime in the evening we arrive at the hotel. Last but not least, there's a party in the bar next door... Another sleepless night.
The next day we head towards the jungle, to the Chalalan Ecolodge. The boat is ready to leave at 8:30 a.m. Our guide Ivan is already on board. We travel upstream, first on the Beni, then on the Tuichi. The trip is an adventure in itself. A completely new world for us, a few days ago in the dry salt desert of Uyuni, now in the deep green rainforest. José, the co-boat driver, has a lot to do to navigate us through the shallows during the dry season. His wooden stick with tape markings serves as a depth sounder. A few times he intervenes and cleverly pushes us through bottlenecks. Not an easy job. We dock in the early afternoon. Now we still have 25 minutes of walking ahead of us. We help with our luggage, even if we don't need it. The standard tourist who arrives with a wheeled suitcase is happy to accept the help. We are greeted with freshly squeezed grapefruit juice. The fruits grow right on your doorstep.
In the late afternoon we go on a short canoe tour on Lake Chalalan. A beautiful setting. We see a pair of giant otters that have recently settled here. And then a few squirrel monkeys do gymnastics on the tree in front of us. Not to mention the countless different birds. A successful start. By the way, the Madidi National Park is the most species-rich in the world. According to the WCS, a whopping 11 percent of the world's bird species live in the park. Madidi's diverse fauna and flora also includes more than 200 mammal, almost 300 fish and 12,000 plant species.
We should see even more of it in the coming days. We usually walk for 3-4 hours in the morning and another 2 hours in the afternoon. There are numerous trails of varying lengths created around the lodge. Ivan knows exactly which time of day makes which sense. He not only has a very good eye, but also sensational ears. He can hear the different species of monkeys and birds from afar. He sometimes imitates their sounds to attract them. Diego handles the whole thing quite well. He often sleeps in his baby carrier. We also have a crate with us so he can see more. He is very attentive and as quiet as a mouse when we listen and search the trees for animals. Unless he's hungry... then we'll take a little break. Ivan has a lot of understanding for his needs, but also Micha's desire to take as many photos as possible. Unfortunately, at the moment Diego only accepts being carried by me or Micha. And so I carry Diego all the time; not to be underestimated given the tropical climate; After all, he now weighs a good 10 kilos. Micha, on the other hand, trains his arm and shoulder muscles with his heavy telephoto lens. On the second day I have to walk back to the lodge with Diego a little earlier because my circulation isn't working.
At lunchtime we always have some time for a siesta after dinner and I relax in the hammock with Diego or go for a swim in the lake. However, it is too cold for Diego. There are also caimans and piranhas in there, so not suitable for a baby bathtub :-)
In the jungle we should avoid touching branches and leaves if possible. There could always be something poisonous or infested with insects, ants or other small animals. Of course this also applies to Diego. Micha still brings 5 ticks home to civilization, as we later notice. Here, however, they do not transmit any diseases; Even the mosquitoes “only” bite; We are supposedly outside yellow and dengue fever areas.
During the 5 days in the rainforest we see 4 different species of monkeys, all of them diurnal. Even the very shy black spider monkeys can be seen and, with a lot of patience, photographed. We often see green-winged macaws sitting on the palm trees. We usually discover them when they are cracking fruit and then it falls down.
Two snakes also cross our path, including a coral viper. A truly deadly specimen. And last but not least, we even get a toucan in front of the lens. Micha went out with Ivan a few times specifically for sunrise, as this is probably the most likely time to see it. Vain. And as it should, our toucan suddenly sits in the middle of the morning like a model on the sparse tree in front of us.
All in all we feel totally comfortable. The climate is very pleasant to sleep at night and surprisingly there are hardly any mosquitoes. The food is super delicious. The food is cooked with regional ingredients, and there is often fresh fish from the river. And Diego is “the king” for everyone, gets mashed potatoes, bananas, etc. At just under 10 months old, he is the youngest guest who has ever been at Chalalan Lodge. By the way, Diego is also smoked every day, a ritual of the indigenous population for babies. Ivan believes in it too. Evil spirits live especially in the large, old trees and sometimes Pachamama, Mother Earth, makes a sacrifice for us humans to enter this jungle. The means used is a normal cigarette, together with some coca leaves in the mouth, with the smoke of which Ivan blows on Diego. There is also smoking around our cabin. We gratefully accept it. Even if we didn't grow up with this ritual, it helps our opinion if he believes in it.
After the 5 days at Chalalan Lodge we head back to civilization. On the one hand we are sad that we have to leave this beautiful place, but on the other hand we are happy that we can (hopefully) relax a bit. The time was very physically and mentally demanding for both of us. Of course also because of the climate, but above all because of the many activities, together with the photography for Micha and the almost non-stop support from Diego for me. Good weather, a swimming pool and a lounge area with hammocks await us in Rurrenabaque. And there's beer too :-)
Our conclusion: The Bolivian Amazon is the least visited of all Amazon regions (Peru, Ecuador, Colombia and Brazil). Bolivia has hardly any tourists at the moment anyway (with the exception of Uyuni), so we had almost the entire lodge to ourselves. We were also warned that if you were in the Pantanal, the Amazon can quickly become a disappointment when it comes to observing animals. The fact is that many animals in the Amazon are difficult to detect with our nonexistent senses. With an outstanding guide, the Amazon was simply breathtaking in its biodiversity.
About the Chalalan Project:
The Chalalan Project was started in 1996, shortly after the founding of the Madidi National Park. The initiative came from the community of San Jose de Uchupiamonas, which has always been based in this area. The Chalalan Ecolodge was built on the lake of the same name with the aim of bringing tourists there. It was the pilot project for ecotourism in the Madidi National Park. With the support of international NGOs, the residents of San Jose were trained in areas such as guides, cooking, management, etc. It took some time and persuasion before the new way of doing business was accepted. Until then, the community lived mainly from wood processing and animal trapping. Today, the lodge, in which around 74 families have a financial stake, is an important source of income and a major employer for the community. The lodge sets high standards in terms of accommodation, kitchen and guides. It now trains its staff independently. There are now numerous lodges in the Madidi National Park; the Chalalan Ecolodge is, however, unique in some respects.
It is run exclusively by indigenous people who run the lodge with passion and love for their homeland. Long-standing tradition and culture are still alive. You can get authentic insights into their way of life through the gastronomy and the guides.
Chalalan is located in the primeval rainforest; compared to the other lodges, it can only be reached by a 6-hour boat ride from Rurrenabaque.
As the name suggests, it is located on Lake Chalalan, one of the few lakes in this area. There is the opportunity for even more and better animal observation, including from a canoe. And of course you can also swim in the lake - a welcome refreshment in the jungle.
Funfacts:
The lodge has had some prominent guests, such as Harrison Ford. Leonardo DiCaprio has also been there. However, he rented the entire lodge and brought his own cook.
There is also a film about the area, "Lost in the Jungle", which is based on the true story of the Israeli Yossi (Daniel Radcliffe), who was there on an expedition and was rescued by the residents of San Jose. The film was shot in Colombia, however, because the rivers in the Madidi are important routes for the transport of cocaine and therefore no permission was granted to film.
Great journey, great travellers and great Diego.