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Writer's pictureMarion Marquardt

On the trail of the Inca - Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley

Cusco - Inca ruins and gringo hotspot
The salinas of Maras - another relic of the Inca culture
Machu Picchu - is Peru's architectural world heritage worth $400?
Another tourist nap - mass hike to Laguna Humantay

We arrived in Cusco, center of the Peruvian tourism industry. We haven't seen so many gringos in one place since Patagonia. From there, excursions to all well-known Inca sites, the Rainbow Mountains and Laguna Humantay are possible. And of course much more. We're heading to this city mainly to relax for a few days. Our gastrointestinal infection still is not completely cured. There are also numerous repairs on the car and in the cabin on the agenda. Lately it feels like our vehicle has been dismantling itself; as soon as one thing is repaired, the next one pops up. We currently have a leak in the cooling system and the water pump needs to be replaced. The only one who is happy every time the toolbox is unpacked is Diego.


werkzeug camping overlander
Diego is always happy when we unpack the toolbox

The campsite is almost exclusively occupied up of overlanders, all nations and motorhomes are represented - and of course a lot of know-how. So John from Holland, a retired mechanic, helps us repair the leak. We enjoy drinking good coffee for a few days and chatting with other travelers. And Diego has endless playmates and entertainment.


pisco sour drink peru
Pisco Sour for Micha, playmates for Diego





After a few days we move on again. We got tickets for Machu Picchu for Monday - not that easy with just a few days notice. Booking cost me my last nerve; after all, trains, buses and entry times have to be perfectly coordinated. There are different ways to get there - on foot, by train, from Ollantaytambo or Hidroeléctrica. We decide on the fastest and probably most frequented route by train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes. Multi-day treks are not possible with Diego anyway and we want to go there and back in one day - because every overnight stay with a baby feels like moving. First we visit the salt pans of Maras on the way through the sacred valley of the Incas. The labyrinth of salt terraces was created by the Inca with human hands and is now around 1,000 years old. The valuable salt was traded as white gold of the Inca. Mining is still going on here today. However, the majority of the income comes from tourists, through entrance fees and souvenirs (chocolate with Mara's salt for a mere 5 €).


salinas maras salz inka heiliges tal valle sacrada
The white gold of the Inca


Peru - similar to Chile - knows how to effectively market its highlights. Everything has its price, but usually quite a fair one. Machu Picchu is an exception. Prices are horrendous, after all, the American standard tourist is easily willing to spend $1,000 per day of vacation. We also leave around $400 for the train, bus and entrance fee. Hopefully it's worth it. We already guess the answer, especially given our aversion to mass tourist attractions.


ollantaytambo inka ruinen peru
The Inca ruinsof Ollantaytambo

When we arrive in Aguas Calientes by train, we are shocked - the place is created solely for tourists. To exit the station you first have to cross a huge market. If you haven't yet equipped yourself with mosquito protection or the right outfit for your Instagram signature picture, you'll find what you're looking for. Afterwards, restaurants and cafés to which you are “personally invited” are lined up close together. We are happy as we sit on the bus to the top. And surprisingly, the mass even gets a little lost. Almost everyone here travels with a guide; we are also asked countless times whether we would be interested. Even entering the most popular “Circuit 2”, which online is fully booked until next year, is possible. Money talks - you know :-)


machu picchu inka ruinen inkastätte olantaytambo
A mere $400 for the Instagram signature picture :-)


After about an hour we saw everything - it's a wrap. Unfortunately the view is a bit foggy due to the current fires in the Amazon, especially in Ecuador and Brazil. Nevertheless, all in all, the winter residence of the Inca sovereings is very impressive. The precision of the construction and the urban planning with water supply, which was created around 1,450 AD, is simply impressive. Is it worth $400? Well, we definitely didn't want to leave Peru without this highlight. Unfortunately, absolute chaos ensues on the way back by train. A wagon has derailed, resulting in train cancellations and delays; really annoying when you consider the price. The tourists with the "Open Bar Ticket" celebrate uninhibitedly surviving the 12 km long Inca Trail with luggage transport, while I try to put Diego to sleep. Not such a great end to the day...


perurail machu picchu zug bahnhof chaos verspätung
Train chaos at Machu Picchu

The Laguna Humantay is also very hyped in the region. It lies in front of the glacier of the same name, near the imposing snow-capped Salkantay mountain (6,271 m). The hike should be quite short, but the journey is quite difficult. We have to take a detour at an altitude of 3,900 m, a total of 30 km of gravel road awaits us. In order to get an early start, we drive to the trailhead the evening before. Apparently the crowds of tourists arrive from 9 a.m. When we set off at 7:30 a.m. we are still somewhat alone. The 400 meters in altitude are okay, at least we are not quite as high as at Rainbow Mountain. The lagoon is beautiful, but anyone who has been to Patagonia will be disappointed. Especially since the light is no longer good for photos (we probably should have set off at sunrise). For the few tourists above, Diego is the greatest highlight. On the way down does the true face of mass tourism emerge. Hordes of people come towards us, as well as dozens of caravans of horses bringing up lazy tourists.


laguna humantay peru lagune must-see cusco
Not much glacier left at Laguna Humantay

We are now longing to reach the coastal regions in Peru. After such a long time at a constant altitude of more than 3,000 m, we long for oxygen, restful sleep and different landscapes; Micha especially wants to finally go to the sea. Let's hope we find beautiful and lonely places there.


baden anden peru hochgebirge baby
A bath for Diego - a rarity in the high mountains

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